Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Tips for bike touring

Rule 1: protect yourself at all times
Rule 2: protect your fellow riders, except when in conflict with Rule 1
Rule 3: protect your equipment, except when in conflict with Rule 1 or 2

You should have 2 water bottles. You can use each to spray the nozzle of the other to clean it before drinking.

Gas stations frequently run deals on Gatorade/Powerade for 2/$3 or $2.50. It's not a replacement for water, but it is pretty cheap.

If you hand wash your clothes, rig them on the bike the next day to dry. If it's sunny. 

Whenever you have a free moment in the sun, bring out your tent supplies and air them out. It pays to have them toasty dry as much as possible. 

Figure out an organization system for your panniers and stick to it. That'll help for when you need to find something in an emergency, like a sudden downpour. 

Plastic bags are great for organization, but they only come in so many colors and aren't that durable. Think about getting a few camping specific sacks for essentials.

Here's one way I use plastic bags -- I have a sleepwear bag. Inside are my camp/tent clothes and an empty plastic bag. I take it and my towel to the shower. I wash all my cycling clothes and put them in the empty bag. I tote both bags back to the bike. If it's not wet out, I array the wet clothes on my bike. I stuff the empty tent clothes bag in my tent for changing in the morning. 

It's all about efficiency. Even if you're in great shape and have trained a lot, it always pays to take the easy way out on tour. Every little edge you can give yourself helps. When you let your form get sloppy, that's wasted energy. When you don't fully tuck in on a clear downhill, that's wasted energy. Obviously, you can't go crazy with obsessing about every single thing, but just try to identify tactics that will help you save energy.

Ride the white strip when it's safe. No cars, not wet, not on downhills. The paint is generally smoother than the surrounding pavement, which keeps you a bit more comfortable. And since it's smoother, you get a tiny bit less rolling resistance. After a few days, you'll be surprised how easily you can steer the bike between those 3 inches.

Thursday, October 3, 2013

memories sliding from my youth

When I was 12, I went back to China for the first time since I emigrated. I visited the Great Wall where it wraps closest to Beijing. One of the parks there has a long metal slide. It goes like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvv1frWim1E&t=42s
It's an extremely open feeling, with clear danger for not keeping your cart under control. But the views are incredible.

If you watch enough into the video, you see that the guy eventually catches up to his friend, and then has to brake and slow down for the rest of the ride. That happened to me, too. I think I rode twice, getting jammed both times. I really wanted to ride without any impedance. I never got the chance.

When I was flying down the hills of the PCH, looking out at the ocean, I recalled that slide. This time, there were no obstacles. I could go as fast as I dared. It took almost 2 decades to fulfill that dream, but it happened. I think that was part of why I loved that day so much.

Monday, September 30, 2013

arctan(0.05)

A 5% grade is where things go from tolerable over long periods to hard over even moderate periods. Sustaining a 5% climb on a touring bike takes something out of you. 5% grade means 5ft of elevation increase over 100ft. 

http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=arctan%280.05%29
Or 2.9°, which seems like nothing.
It's a little humbling how hard some of the climbs felt when they translated to so few degrees.

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Equipment reviews

This is not a comprehensive review report, since in many cases there's not alternative equipment to contrast. But it's worth noting for future curious bike tourists.

Biking gear
2010 Jamis Aurora Elite:
This was the workhorse. The office. The thin line between us and the road. Overall, it held up very well. The issues I had with it:
- could use a lower gear for touring
- front dropouts' paint cracked after I tightened up the QR a few times
- not the quietest pads, which is fine/good for touring, but might get annoying in civilian life
- the wheels are strong, but I managed to loosen the spokes and put the rear out of true in the last 200mi of the trip
I would recommend it to anyone. The 2011 Aurora Elite was probably the apex evolution of my ride, with SRAM brifters. The 2012 fell to the pressure of fashion and switched to bar-end shifters, which are lame.

Garmin 800 GPS:
I installed community-developed maps for the Pacific coast. These were pretty accurate, with one impossible road in Fairfax. They were a good complement for the turn notes on our route maps. We used the GPS more in cities where there were a lot of short turns, not to do the navigation, but to confirm that we were still on route. Of course, there was also the reward of having all our biking data recorded for posterity.
I got mine on sale for $300, and it's worth that if you train a lot.

Barfly 1.1 mount:
It's a center mount for your GPS. It did its job -- to free up space on my handlebars for other stuff. The default Garmin system is straps, which you could use to secure to the stem for the same space saving. But I use the stem for steering the bike when walking around. I'd say it's worth it.

POC MIPS helmet:
Designed by POC to its own standards instead of the very lax bike helmet standards, this helmet can in theory hold up to multiple impacts, which could help if you bounce your head off the road. It also has a system to reduce rotational acceleration to the head, which is likely to be a factor in concussions.
Like with my kickboxing gear, I take no chances with head protection. If a $200 helmet offers marginal protection improvements over a $50, it's totally worth it to me.
I never got to test the protection, fortunately, but the helmet vented just fine, and I never felt swamped on my scalp.

Ortlieb Classic Roller panniers:
You are gonna be in and out of your bags all day on tour. So you need a system that's easy to open and secure. I would say you'll open and close your bags 20 times a day. A system that's simple and not a pain is worth extra money. The Ortlieb Classics definitely deliver. They have a closure system that can be used in a variety of ways and definitely lock down tight when you want overnight.
The material is waterproof and tough. I scraped mine against a lot of things (including on the move) and they looked pretty new by the end. I wouldn't recommend anything else. This is the product for which I probably can give the strongest endorsement.

Bontrager MTB RL shoes:
They worked well. I wear 11-11.5 in real life and got 45 for these bike shoes. And E for width. The shoes were a little long, but were more than tight enough for touring use. The shop where I got fit didn't have a huge shoe selection, but these were the widest, and definitely wide enough for my wide feet. I'm aware that having stiff shoes is the essence of efficiency for bike shoes, and I don't think these were great in that department. Again, fine for touring.
The sole design was good for walking on gravel, dirt, grass, rocks, and other terrain. I used caution on very slick concrete or rocks, but I had no falls or slips from them.


Camping
MSR E-House Shelter:
Absurdly unbreathable. I guess that's why it's an emergency cover. Don't use it regularly. It's so effective at trapping air inside that it gets hard to breathe. I'm serious -- I couldn't get enough fresh air and would wake up hyperventilating. I ended up setting it up in a lean-to configuration to shelter me from potential rain.
The only plus I can give it is that it packs much smaller than the provided sack, which is novel for this kind of gear.

MSR AC-Bivy:
Light and compact. If you absolutely need to save space, this is better than a 1-person tent. It has problems with condensation worse than a tent. It also isn't rainproof by itself. I would often sleep under the open sky with my bivy, but in case of rain, I'd have to roll up the mesh part and hope water didn't seep in. This tactic would work fine in light rain. In heavy rain, I guess you'd have to fall asleep with your hands clamped. I can recommend this when you know you're going into a mostly dry climate.

Ledge Sports Scorpion Sleeping Bag:
Not real down, but still pretty good. The sack has a waterproof lining on the inside that wears off with a few packings. I don't think that's a big deal. I got mine for $40, which is an insane value for how well the bag functioned.

Matt's REI sleeping pad was effective, but very noisy whenever he turned in his sleep. I would say that was the dominant noise at night.

pictures 9/15 - 9/19

9/15 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/915-prologue-to-big-climb.html
9/15 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour915?authkey=Gv1sRgCO66oa7yh6SI9QE
9/15 video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYUKnI4XK40&hd=1

9/16 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/916-climb-complete.html

9/16 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour916?authkey=Gv1sRgCJCjqMnkmMqFBw

9/17 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/917-no-easy-days.html

9/17 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour917?authkey=Gv1sRgCPrywZOTsMPStgE

9/18 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/918-blue-pacific.html

9/18 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour918?authkey=Gv1sRgCOX3npWvz7KTqgE
9/18 video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5m_k9jVgno

9/19 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/919-in-san-fran.html

9/19 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour919?authkey=Gv1sRgCNaBhqLK78KOwwE

9/20+ pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour920?authkey=Gv1sRgCL_6_qG29cmycQ
9/20+ video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDbCtjw85pE

pictures 9/10 - 9/14

9/10 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/910-routine.html
9/10 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour910?authkey=Gv1sRgCOuX0aG428zgbw

9/11 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/911-california-looming.html
9/11 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour911?authkey=Gv1sRgCOeZiqD6kM3Z7wE

9/12 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/912-into-great-bear-state.html
9/12 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour912?authkey=Gv1sRgCP6xpOeLk6KGHQ

9/13 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/913-easing-into-our-final-rest.html
9/13 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour913?authkey=Gv1sRgCJbSqfCiou-WnwE

9/14 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/914-last-rest-day.html

pictures 9/5 - 9/9

9/5 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/95-along-sea.html
9/5 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour95?authkey=Gv1sRgCM3xmJC5yZ_vDw

9/6 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/96-when-it-rains.html

9/6 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour96?authkey=Gv1sRgCJK-u4XjrKaU9AE

9/7 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/97-rest-day.html


9/8 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/97-back-on-road-going-down-coast.html

9/8 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour98?authkey=Gv1sRgCJXWi97IlJ_uXQ
9/8 video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_HbT6Iqk6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCAZi_LWNnI&hd=1


9/9 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/99-in-and-out-of-mist.html

9/9 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour99?authkey=Gv1sRgCOHMpNPf1a7QsAE

pictures 8/31 - 9/4

8/31 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/08/landed-in-seattle.html
8/31 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour831?authkey=Gv1sRgCJXRgvb8je2rjAE

9/1 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/first-day-on-road.html

9/1 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour91?authkey=Gv1sRgCICm2M7kj8uygAE
9/1 video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9CzsKXciJI&hd=1


9/2 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/92.html

9/2 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour92?authkey=Gv1sRgCMP_9cPi0Z72Yg
9/2 video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdlCN4exRmw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_Q1w1wsT0g
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8jxnMIKvng
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HC0buGCrEZU


9/3 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/93.html

9/3 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour93?authkey=Gv1sRgCO3sroXUkIX3zgE
9/3 video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6AOILcxeSw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOPtBFZLLME
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wE-NlT4XV2w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6W9xCLrmV40

9/4 post: http://mengs-blog.blogspot.com/2013/09/94-into-oregon.html
9/4 pics: https://picasaweb.google.com/105909573807230408134/BikeTour94?authkey=Gv1sRgCIXotIb7iu7YZw
9/4 video: 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6tGRkDszv0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sspL4FwKPCI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMPRl1AJCrE

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

New wave of pics coming

Gabe sent his pics/videos from his real camera. I'll try to upload them in a timely manner.

the fate of the Pink Cap

Some of you have wondered what became of the Pink Cap. Well, we didn't really ever boil over and just start grousing about stuff, so it was usually hard to decide on a wearer.

On top of that, the last think we'd think about when getting off the bikes to go get food or whatever was dragging out the cap to wear.

So by the time we got to San Fran, it was pretty much off our minds. But, Gabe did end up with it last, and I think with the most days. So congrats.

Monday, September 23, 2013

9/23: farewell to the tour

A final day in San Fran. This is our bonus day from having hit the city early. The leisurely pace at which we've seen the sights has been great. Not only as a counterbalance to the work of putting in miles, but also because it means we can visit the city on our on terms. As we walk, I've stepped into quite a few bike shops just to gawk and absorb the bike culture here a bit more. 

That said, with my now fairly frequent and high bandwidth access to the Internet, I'm increasingly drawn back to the real world. I know that work awaits me at the far end of the runway. As I told Pete last night, I love my job and it's hard to put focus away from it. So I am more than ready to ensconce myself in the comfortable couch of my daily routine. 

We stopped at a specialty sofa store that had 80 different flavoring a and ingredients. One of which was gentian root, the known secret ingredient for Moxie. I had a ginger soda with gentian, and it tasted weird but good. 

The Wiggle is a path that helps cyclists stay on flat ground:

5 planes skywriting:

9/22: Sunday in SF

At a furniture store, the Beatles as Miis:
Pics downtown:

Some steep hills:


Alcatraz looked much closer in real life:
We got to see Lombard St, which was packed with tourists and not especially photogenic. 

Sea lions on Pier 39:




For dinner, we met up with our old friend from high school Pete. Great Italian food in Nob Hill, which meant a bit more walking up hills. I've always thought of Pete as a wild one, so it was a change to see him so focused and tied down on his job. Good for him. Of course he still has the same mannerisms and personality, but definitely an adult making it in the real world now. 

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Matt should get this saddle

Because that's how he rides:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEtPvxjizcY&t=57s

Vocab from our trip

Taking it to the next level --
when we were really hungry, we'd sometimes just mix two foods together into one because we'd just want to eat it so fast. Ex.: putting tortilla chips and salsa onto your turkey sandwich. Eating those at once is taking it to the next level.

Pro --
anything we thought embodied what hardcore cyclist did, wore, or espoused. There might be a pro way to rest on your bike at a stoplight. We would debate whether a certain person was being pro when they were parked at a light. Conversely, we would also joke if something we did was not pro.

Rage --
having survived a hard climb, to be able to rest and glide down a long hard descent

Banking miles --
we needed to average 58mi per day on the trip, with 2 rest days budgeted. Some days, we'd fall short. Others, we'd go much further. Extra miles would be added to our "bank" of buffer miles in case of issues. While we never really had a serious issue, some days we just wouldn't get far. So always on our minds would be the idea of adding a little to the bank.

Punching --
I think this is a real cycling term. If there's a small but steep hill ahead, preceded by a downhill, you can accelerate hard downhill, carry your speed uphill, and crest the hill before you have to engage your low gears. Thanks to my weight and downhill acceleration, I was able to use this tactic the most. Once a hill gets much longer than 1/8mi, it's hard to maintain the energy to keep sprinting up the hill.

Grind --
when faced with a very steep long hill, you have no choice but to get into that low gear and slowly pedal.

Sickkk --
anything spectacular, exciting, interesting, or amusing. Things that were sickkk:
- great views
- good deals on energy bars
- hearing crazy plans from other bike tourists
- having ridden at a good pace over the day

lions and lambs

This was a grueling trip. The daily workload was so high that I couldn't be my usual self (not that I'm typically free of mood swings). I think the same was true for Matt and Gabe. It was hard to tell when we were being silent simply because we were very tired and when we were quiet because the riding had put us in a foul mood. Of course there were plenty of laughs and good times, but undoubtedly, the daily riding took a huge toll on our outlooks. I was on the verge of snapping so many times from the relentless pace of the trip. I remember when I was in China for 3 weeks, the last week I caught some awful stomach bug from bad crab meat. The daily pain kept me in a low mood for the rest of the trip. This bike tour was something like that, where a few hard miles could take the wind out of your sails for the rest of the day.

In all my prep for this trip, I kept striving to be in shape for it, to be able to handle the physical hardship. While I thought I prepared really hard, it's probably never going to be enough for what you really do.

I thought I could just completely master the physical demand, but no, it was extremely hard. Early on, I was eager to climb up the hills and fly across the flats, but I would feel it right away as my energy ebbed away. In the last week, I knew I was getting worn down. I was eking every bit of effort I could from my muscles, but they were still tiring out. The final winding climb up to the Golden Gate Bridge was the climax. There was a strong, cold headwind. The grade was very steep. I hated it. But I knew I could do it. So I forced myself up and up until we'd reached the bridge. The view was the emotional end of the trip. Everything we had put in, all the care we had taken on the road -- that was so we could see this city. San Francisco is one of the few US cities with a non-transliterated name in Chinese. It's called the Old Gold Mountain. San Fran's story is of course entwined with that of early Chinese immigration and integration into America. The name embodies the excitement of wealth and opportunity in the new world. As I pedaled with my last legs across the gusty bridge, I thought about that name and what it meant for millions of Chinese looking to arrive here before me. All the risks they took and all the sacrifices they made. This was the destination they wanted to reach.

At the outset, I was so motivated to physically dominate this tour. While I had finished, it was no domination. Making that final crossing into San Francisco sealed this realization. I'd survived, but had been thoroughly humbled.

sold the Jamis

I knew I wasn't going back to touring any time soon, and I didn't want to drag the thing back to Boston, so I started listing the bike on Craigslist in San Fran at the 2nd rest day. Without great pictures, I dunno if it got a lot of interest. Once I was in town, I cleaned the bike and took better pictures, which drove up the response volume.

A lot of buyers still fell through, which is what I'm very used to on Craigslist. The guy who ended up buying it was new to geared bikes and biking in San Fran but was extremely excited. I'm glad to have the bike off my hands.

Some people develop emotional attachments to things that they use a lot. I think I have it for a very select few things. But even for this machine that carried me safely through 1000mi of the west coast, I didn't feel something special. It was a tool I could rely on, but not something I was in love with. Buddhists might see something wise in that sort of detachment, but I don't feel strongly about it one way or the other.

Matt sold his, too. Gabe shipped his back home for continued use and maybe a future tour.

So long, Aurora Elite:

9/21: from cycle touring to food touring

Got up. Ate an omelette slice cooked up by Drake with feta and tomatoes in it, and then a duck jerky stick from their local coop meat share (this is San Fran, after all).

We ate dimsum at Hong Kong Lounge in Inner Richmond. Without a doubt the best dimsum I've had in the US. I would qualify that style as lunch-oriented dishes, with no breakfast items like you might see at dimsum in southern China.

I then spent the early afternoon selling my bike. More on that later.

I rode with Drake on an easy circuit of the city, going up to Twin Peaks for some great views:

That tower again!:

Bison at the gardens:

Doing it on a nice light road bike made things so much easier.

For dinner, we went to a Greek festival, where I had
- gyro
- tiropita
- souvlakia
- sliced lamb
- moussaka
- calamari
it was delish.

Bo Shi and Boyuan hung out with me and Gabe late night at a sushi bar. The sushi was adequate. I tried monkfish liver, which was far more normal liver tasting than most fish livers I've had.

Friday, September 20, 2013

9/20: lounging in San Fran

Got up. Had a potential buyer for my touring bike bail on me right before the meeting. Washed the bike to prep for other sales.

Met up with Matt and Gabe for lunch at Marnee Thai. The hot cakes were light and sublime:
Biking over there was a real trial, as my legs were shot from the riding yesterday. After lunch, we just walked around the city taking the sights in. It was so satisfying to not have to bike for miles and miles.
I found a place that sold red-braised chicken hearts:

Bo Shi met up with us for dinner at Shanghai Dumpling King.

Some other sights:

The cast of characters

The following are folks we ran into along the way that gave us so much to grin about, to dwell on. We agreed that if we would want to buy them a beer should we run into them in San Fran, then they would get documented in this post.
Names in italics are made up. Not to protect innocence, but because we never bothered to get names from some folks.

Johnnie on the ferry -- a kid who worked the night shift in Seattle and rode the ferry back over to Bremerton. We ran into him at the ferry entrance. His bike was stuck in a single gear. He was tired and asked if we could wake him up once the ferry was docking to Bremerton.

Tim and Buster -- a guy slowly riding up from Santa Cruz to Seattle, with his dog Buster. Buster barked once, but then Tim told him to hush, and we never heard from the dog again. Tim was going slowly, having been on the road for over a month. He lived hardily on the road. When we ran into him on our 3rd day, he draped his tarp over his picnic table and slept out in the open in a sleeping bag.

Grumpy -- the proprietor of Grumpy's Cafe, somewhere in Washington. She had signs all over the place that belied her grumpy nature. A sign in the bathroom reminded you that dirtying it up would warrant revenge from your food server. She was so confused and then amused when I asked for 2 entrees for lunch.

Skate Kid -- a guy in his twenties with a seemingly permanent smile on his face. He leapfrogged us back and forth over the first 2 weeks, and we learned his story over these crossed paths. His mission was to bike down the coast and skate at every skate park on the way. We definitely saw him pull off to do this once. He was fast on the road, too. We imagined that he would find a way to skate or grind every major sight on the way.

McDonald's couple -- two folks we met outside McDonald's during lunch. They were probably the first people we talked much about the route and equipment. They had two older road bikes and more of a mishmash of equipment. They had gotten their panniers for $50 on "Amazon... dot com."

Crook Knees on aero bike -- one of several older folks doing a supported tour. We're not sure exactly which group he was with, but they would ride light, with a car or van lugging other stuff from campground to campground, setting things up before people would arrive. It meant you could ride a faster, nimbler road bike. Crook knees had a very serious aero bike, and went pretty fast until he got to climbs. He had an extremely stiff and bowlegged form, which lent his name. It was totally bizarre to see him straining down the road.

Ice cream couple -- not really a couple, but a pair of old folks who teamed up in their supported ride. They seemed to be a bit lackadaisical with their navigation. At one point, while we were leaving a small city behind us and just entering an onramp back onto 101, we saw them stopped ahead of us, consulting the route cards. They asked us casually, "do you know where any ice cream is?" We of course replied that it'd probably be back in the city, and not further on 101. Later, they saw a traffic jam on a bridge and simply assumed that the road was blocked off and impassable.

Colorado couple -- two people we met at the crowded hiker/biker campsite. The girl had dyed bright red hair and a strange accent. She was a Montreal Canadian and emphasized statements with "EH," but had just come back from Australia, whose speech and unique turns of phrase had left fingerprints all over her accent. They joined firewood forces with us for a very long fire that night. They also had an extremely loud gas burner for cooking. It sounded like a jet warming up for takeoff. We saw them quite a few times on the road.

Klaus and Siegfried -- two middle aged German guys also at the hiker/biker campsite. They prattled away in German and were friendly but not very fluent. They were so excited to get their pictures taken when crossing into California. Klaus was tall and Nordic, while Siegfried was short and a bit dumpier. Both had very serious German-style touring bikes. They also had a German guide to the Pacific Coast route, which surprised us. More on Germans later.

Yos dudes -- going along the coast, the road got very hilly and extremely rocky. We pulled off for a break from this. The only other visitors at the beach viewpoint were two guys touring on hypermotard motorcycles. One guy was cracking up on the beach and was generally very jovial. He was super tan and wore his hair long. A life on the road, I bet. His speech was what really stood out. Not only did he interject with "yo" often, but he would pluralize it because he was addressing multiple people! So he would say stuff like, "aww, are you riding on bikes, yos? Hardcore!" and "stay safe out there, yos!" An amazing specimen of surfer ethos and mannerism.

Rolf and Werner -- we saw these two pull up to the same RV camp as us. Gabe asked them where they were headed. They were taking 8 months to go all the way. To the tip of Argentina. They again had the stouter mountain bike style rides that Germans seemed to prefer. Werner was tall, pale, and cheerful, with close-cropped platinum hair. Rolf was very studious and liked to smoke and read in the morning to get some quiet.

Jack from the Lost Coast -- down 1, there were many stretches of roadwork, often on bridges. A flagman would hold traffic in front of one-lane areas. At one of these points, we pulled up to a portly and effusive biker. He had just done the Lost Coast route that we avoided as too difficult. He said that 60mi stretch took him 5-7 days! Yes, he didn't seem as fast as us, but still, what a morass to battle through.

Wolfgang, Elfie, and Butzi -- the German family who bike toured with their baby in tow. Still reeling about how crazy that is. When we saw that these guys were German, we all thought, California should really pay the German government something for all the tourism they're sending its way. Elfie's English was really good, though we didn't talk to them much. At a picnic site, the couple were tied up chatting with Jack, so we couldn't ask them much about their baby-towing rig. Despite carrying all that gear, they were about as fast as us on the road. You could see cars giving them very wide berth in passing once they realized there was a baby in the baby carrier. When we got to the end of the day, we passed on the awful no-shower state campground, while they stayed there. What terrifically hardy folks.

Cult house 5460

Outside Elk, we saw this imposing and mysterious house:
http://goo.gl/maps/HbldW

What is it all about? The address is 5460, but the name of the road is inexact. Shoreline Highway, CA SR 1, Coast Highway, etc.

9/19 misc pics

What the racoons did to Gabe's food this time:
The bite marks on the banana skin really crack me up.

The view from breakfast in Bodega Bay:
Sea lions floated about in the water in complete comfort.

Gabe finally tries out the vest option on his cycling jacket:

A cool diverted flow from I believe Tomales Bay:

A true segregated bike lane in Fairfax:
Kind of a novelty after the small shoulders of US 1.

First full view of the Golden Gate Bridge:

And after a windy crossing:


Gabe and Matt said they saw the house from Full House in our slog through the city to Drake's, but I missed it!

Moon down the street:

Cool gate:


Spicy prawns:

What does it take?

What does it take to do a bike tour?
Here's some suggested capabilities/strengths we've thought of over the trip. 

- have the right bike. Get a solid made for touring bicycle. Don't get something that's too worn unless you're an expert bike mechanic. And even then, budget extra time for fixing the bike. 
- have the right gear and setup. Part of Matt's troubles came from not getting a bike fit. I have no idea how much harder the trip would be on me if I hadn't gotten a very good fitting. On top of that, my bike shoes helped me overcome some early minor pains by limiting the wobbling and excess motion in my legs.
- don't go alone. Unless you really want that solitary experience, it's safer and more practical to split trip duties across multiple folks. There's all sorts of strength in numbers to be had. Three is a good number -- you can take votes and stay in one motel room. 
- be ready physically. I can't stress this enough. You have to know you can handle the riding. Out here, averaging 11mph over 5-6 hours is good. But when you train, you have to go faster and climb harder just to know if you can do it.
- be ready mentally. You'll have to live and work as a team. Yes, everyone can get cranky and moody, but things need to stay under control for the duration.
- don't be afraid of detours and delays. That's part of doing this kind of trip. Expect to get a few flats. 
- don't be afraid of traffic or dogs. You'll see plenty of both, and if you are irrationally afraid of either, it won't be safe to ride this much.
- you gotta be able to deal with pissing on the side of the road. Or holding it a lot, I guess. 

Thursday, September 19, 2013

9/19: we made it

We're pushing to San Fran

Plan is to get there Thur late afternoon. The excitement will help us finish this. We are 35mi away. 

9/18: misc pics

Signs that we are NorCal:
Posted in an organic grocery. 

A single cow surveying from the hilltop. 
These cows were free to roam onto the road:

The view from the fancy, remote restaurant we are at:


Cool house through the trees:

My bike:


The deer luck club

We've had deer in the road or on the roadside 5 or 6 times now. They are very apprehensive, but it's a bit unnerving to see them bounding around. It's strange to stare into a wild animal's eyes. 

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

9/18: the blue Pacific

68mi and 5200ft of climbing. A new record -- a vertical mile of ascent. We are now 72mi from San Fran. I think there's some debate over whether we should just show up Thur afternoon. We'll see. 

Today was without question the most spectacular scenery of the trip. We were originally planning to go 50mi and stay at a casually marked campsite. When we got there, it was closed and CalTrans workers were constructing stuff. It'd been shut for 5 years. So we had to press on to make another campsite. A CalTrans worker told is about a stealth camping location a mile ahead. I wish I had pictures, because that location was ridiculous. It was probably a grass 50 degree slope into the ocean. Each of us laughed as we rode by it. The spot was in the middle of a steep climb. As I climbed, I saw the ocean stretch out before me. It really was something else. 
Cliff to the left and cliff to the right, with the ocean lining the road:
It looked like this for miles and miles:
I got to the peak and practically leapt off the  bike. 
It was a sense of accomplishment to make that climb to see this. We were dead tired, but the view energized us. 

After our photo op break, we kept climbing. Then there were some incredible descents. Sometimes, you're headed downhill with the Pacific Ocean as a wall headed toward you. Another time, you could see miles of winding road snaking down the hills before you. I'm not nearly romantic enough to think the visual experience we got is unique to biking, but it was certainly thrilling. Better than any roller coaster. 

Eventually, we showed up to a camp and settled in. There was obviously no swimming:
Overnight, Gabe got raided by raccoons again. Those rascals love the taste of paper. 

I'm going to post more misc pics separately.