9/18: through the tunnel to Bryce

Today is the longest leg of the tour, and had a special obstacle -- a mile+ tunnel that cannot be crossed by bike. It's the only practical way from Zion to Bryce. The prescribed way to do this for bike tourists is to hitch a ride with some generous and appropriately equipped strangers driving through the tunnel. 

Trying to be prepared, we made these signs to hold while hitching for a ride:

We left camp at 7:40, well after it was light outside, but with enough cars on the road that we'd be able to flag down a generous truck or RV, we hoped. Turnd out there's plenty of traffic on the roads in a Monday morning. I saw plenty of trucks with empty beds as we crawled up the switchbacks to the tunnel entrance. 

Two RVs roared by, and I thought, man, those would have been perfect. The sun rise higher and we kept grinding our way up the mountain. 

A couple of switchbacks higher up, we saw the RVs just parked at a cut out. I have rarely put forth a burst of speed like I did to reach the drivers before they got back inside. I managed to get to the window of the first RV and get their attention. After an intentionally breathless and earnest explanation, we were able to allay these Dutch travelers about the legality of our mission. They opened up the trunks of the RVs and helped store or bikes. We were thrilled to have the ride through the tunnel sorted out and hopped into the RV cabins. 

This might be how a car visitor sees Zion:

When we arrived at the entrance of the tunnel, the crossing guard had us wait until the tunnel was entirely clear, after which she instructed us to drive through using both lanes. The 1.1 mi tunnel was very dark and uphill -- completely infeasible for cyclists to ride through. 

On the other side, we took out our bikes and tried to pay fare to our benefactors. They refused, so I left them with a zine. 

We had lucked out and gotten over the first several miles and out the tunnel, but we still faced 83 mi total for the day. A long ride yet ahead of us. 

The other side was some gorgeous Zion rock scenery. 

We stopped for first lunch at a German bakery that Matt's friend had recommended. Delishush. 

More riding and climbing through some pasture country between Zion and Bryce. 

Finally, we got to Dixie National Forest, a preview of the hoodoos to come. 

We rode along a deserted scenic path all the way to our stop, an RV inn just outside Bryce. This last stretch was nice in that it was completely devoid of traffic, but much less even in grade compared to UT-12 running alongside it. 

We mustered out energy and finished the remaining 13 mi on the path.